This is a great hot end kit for my Creality CR-10s in which I’ve upgraded to 24v and added a sprite extruder. This is my second one as the first was clogged due to my error.

Version: CeramicDate: 8/6/23Price: $29.99Pro:1. You only need the set screw to attach this nozzle to your sprite extruder and no longer have to worry about those two M3 bolts that could throw your heating block off center if you overtightened one.2. It gets hot QUICK. Now this just seems like a convenience thing on first blush and it is convenient. But what this really means is that it can keep a consistent temperature due to its quick response time. I also trust the temperature probe more since it is closer to the heating element than the standard block.3. Swapping between ceramic hot ends does not require any adjustment to Z-Offset (which is important when I get to downsides). These can be easily swapped without having to tweak anything at all.Cons:1. You can't just replace the nozzle when you need to, and what is worse is that it is a brass nozzle. If you're Z-Offset is bad and the nozzle scrapes the bed and all of the sudden your nice and clean 0.4mm nozzle gets some brass shavings in it and it never prints the same again. I only did this once but it is a quick way to ruin a pricey hotend. You cant replace the nozzle so its basically an unreliable back up from there on out.2. I dont know if this is just me or most people. For whatever reason I cannot load filament into the hot end without the filament binding somewhere near the copper heat break. What I have to do is remove the set screw securing the hot end and feed some filament through the sprite extruder, then by hand put the filament inside the copper heat break and refasten the set screw. This isn't a huge issue because the whole hot end sits in the exact same spot every time you take it off and put it back on. Just insert the hot end as far as it goes so it is sitting flush with the heat sink. Bob's your uncle.3. This might be a "me" problem but I find when I switch between different materials using the same hot end that it is more susceptible to jams. I don't remove the filament after a print is done and perhaps im switching from PLA to PETG. It may work for the first print but by the second or third I start running into issues. To remedy this, im starting to remove the filament after each print and running some cleaning filament through just to be sure.General Review:As long as you respect the Z-Offset and dont scratch up the tip then it is great for PLA, PETG, TPU, and ABS. I so wish they made one out of hardened steel and maybe some with 0.6mm nozzles as those are quite useful for speed.If you leave it be and let it continue to run, eventually that set screw holding it in place will loosen and you will have a bad day. Periodically check all screws on the sprite extruder. Those thermal cycles add up and its amazing to see a screw you torqued down a week ago being finger tight. This might be because I have a canvas chamber and I built a heater to keep the chamber temp at a constant 35C while printing.I also love these hot ends because there is no "oozing". Like with regular hot ends, you sometimes get material coming out of the threaded side of the nozzle. The back pressure fills the nozzles threads to the heat block with filament and the rubber sock meant to catch oozing may do its job or it may move out of position and drag across your print, ruining it. Not so with the ceramic block. There is no oozing or extra material coming out of somewhere that might bead up, fall on your print, and ruin it.All in all, I am happy with it. Despite its minor issues.