Dorman 14151 Hauptzylinder-Entlüftungs-Set

trabajo como esperaba excelente

I have used this kit on several master cylinders now, works great and make the job so easy.

Easy to use

Way too much money for this kit, but it did what I needed it to do.

The basic idea behind this kit is that the tubes channel the master cylinder's output (fluid/air mixture) into the MC's fluid reservoir when you push the MC's piston inward, and pull only fluid back into the MC when you release the piston.But the problem is that air remains in the tubes when the piston is fully depressed, and gets pulled back into the MC when the piston is released, so that the air is never eliminated. So, I pulled each tube, one at a time, out of the reservoir and put a finger (protected from the fluid by a disposable nitrile mechanic's glove) over the end of the tube just before releasing the piston, to prevent anything in the tube from being drawn back into the MC. Instead, fluid is drawn from the reservoir. Using this procedure, it didn't take many strokes to get the air out. Some do the same thing without the tubes, but the tubes make it easier to see if there's any air still coming out, as well as channeling the fluid back into the reservoir, thus avoiding other problems.When there is ANY possibility of coming into contact with brake fluid, wear nitrile mechanic's gloves and safety glasses. You do not want any of this stuff on your hands or in your eyes, and believe me, it will inevitably get on your hands and come flying at your eyes when you work on brakes. It tries to suck moisture out of whatever it contacts, and if that's your skin, it will dry it out for possibly weeks, and lotion, or at least the ones I tried, don't relieve the irritation. If it's your eye, I shudder to think what could happen.The first step when replacing a master cylinder should be to see if you can loosen its mounting nuts. I didn't do this until after I drained the MC and disconnected the brake lines, and found that I couldn't loosen the mounting nuts with what I had on hand. (I was able to loosen them after getting a deep 6-point socket and some PB Blaster, but it still wasn't easy.)So, I had to reconnect the brake lines to the old MC and bleed the system. Fortunately, I had a Motive power bleeder, and it worked like a charm. But it would have gone much better with a proper bleeding-wrench, because when using a pressure bleeder, it's best to avoid having to disconnect the bleeder-tube to reposition the wrench, because if the valve is oven even slightly, fluid will come out of the end of the valve when you disconnect the tube. So, you need the right wrench to avoid having to reposition it while the valve is partly open.A good tube-fitting would have also come in handy, because it's best to have a tight seal on the bleeder-valve, to prevent fluid from leaking out between the valve and the fitting, and to prevent air from leaking in and giving you the impression that there's air in the system when there isn't, and perhaps continuing to bleed the line until you drain all of the fluid out of the pressure-bleeder, and start pumping air into the system. I almost got to this point, and I had put about a quart into the pressure-bleeder.So, I ordered a bleeder-wrench and some bleeder-tube fittings from Amazon. I tried Wal-Mart, but the fittings would have been shipped from China, which is absurd.When done bleeding, Motive power bleeders are supposed to be rinsed out with denatured alcohol, which is also supposed to be pumped through the hose. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter - don't go to some online forum and risk getting "advice" from some anonymous practical joker. The slightest amount of contamination of any kind in brake fluid might cause problems with the brake system. When I'm not using the power bleeder, I put a baggie over the end of the hose and seal it on with a rubber band. I also keep the pump in a gallon-sized zipper-baggie when it's not in the tank.