Perfect plus they added a package of needles.

Great quality and a fantastic price, will buy again

Sturdy hoops .. only problem is that some are slightly warped, not quite circular but not enough to be a problem .. definitely worth the money

This is a good value pack, I know a minefield when trying to find the right ones to buy! These are very sturdy no splintering unlike some I have had, and were quite stiff initially to open but that is a good thing as I know they can get looser with use. Highly recommend.

These are excellently made cross stitch hoops! Being a natural bamboo, they’re super strong too!Not just great for cross stitching though. How about under soundboard reinforcement for converting your clapped out ukulele into a resonator ukulele?I bought these for the sacrilegious purpose of converting some soundboard-bowed, neck angle issue ukuleles that are currently beyond use almost. The soundboards have bellied so much, and the string height is so high, that fretting a chord is next to not possible at all. Too good for landfill though!Here’s what you’ll need (all available on Amazon):* One of these fantastic cross stitch hoops (£4 singularly)* Hole cutter (£10-£20 or so). Search those tool chests to see if you have one already first! You can either use a variable diameter cutter or a 150mm hole cutter. ***Most vital tip for this build - measure the diameter of your resonator cat bowl before buying your hole cutter and definitely before cutting your sound hole!**** Six inch, metal cat food bowl (around £3 - £5 will do).* Four-string tailpiece (just search for a four string cigar box guitar tailpiece here on Amazon). They’re ones I use are chrome, flat, four holes for strings, two holes for screws and under £10.* Resonator guitar biscuit and bridge (around £10 - £15).* Baritone ukulele strings for concert ukulele (and potentially tenor ukulele) sized instruments, tuned GCEA so you don’t need to learn new chords again.Total project cost around £37 - £53 plus whatever you usually spend on your chosen brand of ukulele strings.You’ll also need, and hopefully already have:* A length of hardwood, cut into two pieces later, that’s the exact length of the body of your ukulele (I’ll be using 40mm by 20mm Ash, because it’s what I’ve got laying around).* Good quality wood glue (I prefer Titebond III but I’m sure other brands can work just as well).* A tool for scraping away ends of instrument bracing. This is usually a chisel but never use a hammer for this purpose and always ask for help if you usually have someone help you with using tools with sharp edges.* Wood clamps* Wood saw* Workbench or somewhere that you can saw some flat woodHere’s my plan for these cross stitch hoops:A) Use the hole cutter tool to cut a six inch hole in the soundboard and through any bracing likely to be in the way of the hole you’ll cut.B) Use a chisel, what-have-you (be careful with sharp edged tools as they can cause very nasty injuries) to scrape away enough of the brace work ends under the soundboard that are visible through your newly cut hole, in order to fit the cross stitch hoop in position under the soundboard. Take your time with this step as nobody wants you to lose a finger and nobody wants a split, unsightly looking soundboard.C) Place the cross stitch hoop through the hole after applying copious amounts of wood glue to the side of the hoop that will touch the underside of your instrument’s soundboard.D) Where the hoop touches the instrument’s braces, glue the hoop/bracing intersections to reinforce the soundboard again.E) Allow the glue to dry. Always follow the instructions of your glue manufacturer as given on the side of the container. Add 12-24 hours on top to be sure, if you have the time to wait and are super patient. You can’t really let things dry too long at this point, but you can easily carry on too quickly. The drying stage waiting time should definitely be adhered to!Voila! You have a strong instrument top that’s reusable as a resonator instrument soundboard again!Next step is to further brace your instrument against the severe force of the tuned up strings with two small pieces of hardwood that are the combined length of the body of your ukulele. Lay the wood along the top of your ukulele and mark where the middle of your hole is then off to a workbench to clamp up and cut at the marked point. If you feel nervous, unsure, wary or usually have supervision using sharp tools then this is a job for that person/someone confident and competent at using a saw.These two pieces should be placed into position with strong wood glue as follows:Place a pre-glued end of one section of wood at the neck end of the instrument, under the soundboard and down approximately two inches away from the cross stitch hoop (or the depth of your cat food bowl), towards the part of your instrument that you hold against your chest when playing.Place a pre-glued end of the second section of wood against the base of the instrument (called the ‘butt’ of the ukulele, where there’s usually always a wood block for strengthening when the instrument is built and the sides of the ukulele are glued), under the soundboard and equally two inches below the cross stitch hoop, towards the bottom of the instrument, the part of the instrument that you hold against your chest when you play.Glue both remaining ends of the two wood pieces in the middle where they meet, at the cut hole section, to make the two pieces of strengthening-wood one piece again.Allow another crucial glue drying time. Don’t try to combine this drying time with the previous drying time. You could easily end up with incorrect placement of your hoop or some other issue. You need a strong soundboard to do the preceding extra bracing wood steps, and you’ll only have a strong soundboard after allowing the drying time of placing the hoop in position and allowing it to dry as mentioned at the beginning of this project.Final steps are to:1) Add the four string tailpiece for tying off your strings to the end of the instrument. You will need to screw the tailpiece into the wood-through-body brace we added previously. Be as accurate as possible so you don’t miss the aimed for wood (tip: look for where the sides of the ukulele meet and use this point as the centre of your tailpiece).2) Drop a six-inch cat bowl into the hole. Don’t glue it as the downward force of your strings will hold it in place.3) Add the biscuit and bridge then string up!Awesome! You now have a resonator ukulele for around £37 -£53 upgrade costs (all spent on Amazon) plus the cost of your preferred strings (also likely available right here too), on top of your previously lifeless ukulele that you might have ended up throwing in landfill.Reduce, recycle reuse - the make-do-and-mend ethos rides again!!